The San Diego Festival of Beers is a robust 5-year-old, as you can see Friday when the annual event spills into the downtown streets around Columbia and B. Between 6 p.m. and midnight, nearly 60 breweries wilt pour samples of 120 brews. We wilt be awash in IPAs and ESBs, Kolschs and reds. It will be high tide for ambers and stouts, blueberry wheats and hefeweizens, Octoberfests and Oktoberfests.

But that's not the point.

"I don't know who came up with the idea, but this is a fund raiser," said Kimber, 37, who coordinates the fest for San Diego Professionals Against Cancer.

And it always has been. The first two fests held in 1994 and 1996, were used to swell the American Cancer Society's coffers. When the SDPAC won California nonprofit status in 1997, the group assumed the event's sponsor ship but continued to direct all proceeds to cancer research.

As the festival has attracted more and more beer fans-attendance has grown from 700 in '94 to 3,000 in '98-the funds have grown too. Last year's event cleared roughly $35,000. It helps that Kimber's overhead is so low. All beer is donated by the breweries, and a team of 120 volunteers sets up in the after noon and cleans up in the wee hours. The group always pays for security guards, a wise investment.

We've never had a serious incident No arguments, nobody falling down drunk," Kimber said. "It's just a fun event."

For the $15 admission fee, you're entitled to six sample tickets and a slight twinge of self satisfaction. After all, this is-have I mentioned this?-a good cause. And even non beer-geeks can enjoy this party. Kimber, chief hospital corpsman on the destroyer Elliot, couldn't tell a porter from a pilsener when he started this gig.

"I'd never even tasted a microbrew." he said. "Now, I can't drink anything but micro brews." 

But that's not the point.

OK, so it's not about the beer. But here's a biased festival guide, highlighting offerings reviewed here. 

This is a great opportunity to learn about San Diego's burgeoning brewing scene. Drop by the booth featuring Kimber's favorite beers, Karl Strauss. San Diego's original microbrewery will pour its signature Golden Amber Lager (Brewery Rowe rating: 3 bottles) and its Pate Ale (31/2 bottles) .

Compare and contrast the Strauss pate with Hang Ten Brewing's flowery, richly matted Pintail Pate (5 bottles), or its amber to San Diego Brewing's creamy amber (4 bottles).

Then move on to the many styles crafted by local masters. Black Magic Stout (5 bottles) from Del Mar Stuft Pizza & Brewery wowed the judges at this year's San Diego Real Ale Festival. Something lighter? The Independent Beverage Testing Institute bestowed its highest rating on Ballast Point's Yellowtail Pate Ale (3 bottles) in the Kolsch category.

If you're curious about the English extra special bitter style, sip AleSmith's ESB (41/2 bottles), another local gold-medalist (1997 World Beer Championships).

Stone Brewing Co., the subject of last month's column, is represented by its pale ale (5 bottles), smoked porter (3 bottles) and Arrogant Bastard Ale (5 bottles). The latter has developed a cult following, but I'll probably move past those crowds and get reacquainted with the work of Pizza Port's Tomme Arthur, whose Breakwater Wit I've been eager to try, or the ex-SEALS at Coronado Brewing Co., who will showcase ales golden (3 bottles) and pale.

Don't overlook the out-of-towners. These days, fortunately, it's not hard to find Sierra Nevada Pale Ale (31/2 bottles) . The pride of Issum, Germany-Diebels Alt (31/2 bottles)-also has established a local beachhead. I may try the Bolinas Bitter from Marin Brewing, or re-examine the balance of citrusy hops and caramely malts in Anderson Valley Brewing Co.'s Boont Amber Ale (3 bottles).

At a beer festival, you need to use tickets-and taste buds-wisely. The more 4-ounce samples you drink, the less distinct the flavors. So shall it be a Mad Dog Magruder's ESB from Old Town Brewing Co.? Anything from Los Angeles' new brewery, Angel City? Dip into AleSmith's new barleywine, Old Numbskull?

I'm up to the challenge.

The calendar says September, but O-fest season is upon us.

Karl Strauss will host a beermaker dinner to celebrate the last Oktoberfest of the millennium, 7 p.m. Oct. 3, Karl Strauss Brewery & Grill, 1157 Columbia St, downtown San Diego. Cost is $39.95. Reservations: (619)234-2739.

The German American Society's annual Oktoberfest will be held two consecutive weekends, Oct. 9-10 and Oct }&17, at 1017 S. Mollison Ave., El Cajon. Besides German and American beers, the event features bratwurst, German potato salad, sauerkraut, soft drinks, a Bavarian band, folk dancers and crafts booths. Information: (619) 442-6637.

The Second Annual Barley Literates' Octoberfest will be held Oct. 23 at Felicita Park, Escondido, starting at noon. For information, send e-mail to Brian Jones, bockme@aol.com, or call him at (619) 565-4481.